高级检索

赫哲族传统鱼皮服饰植物染色技艺初探

Primary Exploration of Plant Dyeing Craftsmanship for Traditional Fish Skin Costumes of Hezhen Nationality

  • 摘要: 早年间赫哲族传统鱼皮服饰的边缘常用花草植物染色而成的彩色鱼皮来装饰,但这种传统的鱼皮植物染色技艺目前已处于几近失传状态,对其进行抢救与保护工作显得尤为重要。从非遗抢救视角,由文献与图像二重互证法,探析赫哲族染色鱼皮衣的兴衰历程,基于赫哲族鱼皮非遗技艺实践来探讨鱼皮植物染色方法,再通过鱼皮蓝染的实践过程,深入探究可实现鱼皮植物染色的操作工序。实践表明,鱼皮染色可分为湿涂染、干涂染和浸染三种方法;因鱼皮剥皮与鱼皮鞣制工艺为赫哲族鱼皮非遗技艺的精髓,故在浸染后再鞣制鱼皮可使其效果更佳。通过重现植物染色鱼皮技艺,以期为赫哲族鱼皮非遗文化创新性发展提供借鉴。

     

    Abstract: In the early years, the edges of the traditional fish skin costumes of Hezhen nationality were often decorated with colourful fish skin dyed with flowers and plants, but this traditional fish skin plant dyeing craftsmanship has been nearly lost. Therefore, it is particularly important to rescue and protect it. From the perspective of intangible cultural heritage rescue, we analyzed the rise and fall of Hezhen fish skin dyeing costumes by literature and image evidence, and explored fish skin plant dyeing methods based on the practice of Hezhen fish skin intangible cultural heritage craftsmanship. Through the fish skin blue dyeing practice, in-depth exploration of fish skin plant dyeing was realized by the operation process. The practice shows that fish skin dyeing can be divided into three methods: wet wiping, dry wiping and immersion dyeing. The process of fish skin peeling and tanning is the essence of Hezhen fish skin intangible cultural heritage craftsmanship, and the immersion dyeing and tanning fish skin process can make it more effective. The reappearance of plant-dyed fish skin craftsmanship provides a reference for the innovative development of Hezhen fish skin intangible cultural heritage.

     

/

返回文章
返回