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戏曲服饰大靠结构在皮革服饰中的创新设计应用研究

Innovative Application Research on the Style and Structure of the Opera's Dakao Costume in Leather Clothing Design

  • 摘要: 大靠是戏曲角色中武将所穿着的代表性服饰,其结构丰富,依靠大靠历史原型(铠甲)研究大靠产生缘由,以大靠结构内容为基础探查大靠创新设计的要点,利用解构重组方式对大靠衣绣片中的代表性元素“燕窝”及服饰的边缘曲线路径进行设计转换;分析皮革面料与大靠之间的联系,以皮革材质为载体进行设计转换;通过设计实践,使原本仅具有表演功能的大靠服饰在现代皮革服饰领域中产生新的影响力,同时也为传统戏曲服饰在现代设计中的应用提供参考。

     

    Abstract: Dakao is the representative dress of military general in the opera roles, and its structure is rich in content. Relying on the historical prototypes (armor), this work studied the causes of Dakao. The key points of innovative design were explored based on the structure content of Dakao. Using the deconstruction and reorganization method, the representative element "YanWo" and the edge curve path in the Dakao embroidery cut-parts were designed and transformed. The connection between leather fabrics and Dakao was analyzed, and design conversion was conducted by using leather material as the carrier. Through the design practice, Dakao costume, which has originally only the performance function, creates a new influence in the field of modern leather clothing. At the same time, it also provides a reference for the application of traditional opera costume in modern design.

     

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