2024 Vol.34(4): 1–9    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2189 KB ] ( )

Cr(VI) is highly soluble in water, and more than 0.1 mg/L of Cr(VI) can be toxic to the environment and life and health.Therefore, the exploitation of a sensitive method for the determination of hexavalent chromium ions is particularly important. Herein, N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl) propyl]ethylenediamine (DAMO) and trimethylsiliconazole (TSIM) were used as the double silicon source precursors, and sodium citrate was used as the reductive agent, and the spherical double silicon source silicon quantum dots (D-SiQDs) were prepared by hydrothermal method. Results showed that D-SiQDs had a spherical structure and a large number of amino and imidazole groups on the surface. Under the optimal conditions, the optimal excitation wavelength of D-SiQDs was 359 nm, and the maximum emission wavelength was 451 nm, and D-SiQDs had good light stability. The fluorescence of D-SiQDs could be selectively quenched by Cr(VI) and the fluorescence quenching degree as a good linear relationship with the concentration of Cr(VI) in the range of 0.5-100 μmol/L. The detection limit was 0.056 μmol/L. The recoveries of detecting Cr(VI) in tap water samples were in the range of 100.37%-105.83%, and the relative standard deviations were all less than 2.36%. Therefore, this paper provides an idea for developing D-SiQDs fluorescent probes for the high-sensitivity detection of Cr(VI).

2024 Vol.34(4): 10–18    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2470 KB ] ( )

Oxidized sodium lignosulfonate (OSL), tartaric acid (TA), and oxidized starch (OST) were used as the ligands of aluminum-zirconium salt (AZ) for leather tanning. These complex tanning systems were compared with conventional chrome (Cr) tanning system in terms of the performance of tanned leather, the performance of crust leather, and the environmental benefits. OSL-AZ combines with collagen mainly by forming coordination bonds. Meanwhile, OSL forms ionic, hydrogen, and hydrophobic bond interactions with collagen through its sulfonic acid group, carboxyl group, phenolic hydroxyl group, and hydrophobic benzene ring. Thus, OSL-AZ forms a rigid macromolecule crosslinking network among collagen fibers. The OSL-AZ tanned leather has a shrinkage temperature high up to 88.4 ℃, an isoelectric point up to 7.54, and an uptake rate for post-tanning chemicals over 84%, thereby resulting in excellent physical properties of OSL-AZ crust leather, which is second only to Cr crust leather. TA and OST without sulfonic acid group, phenolic hydroxyl group and rigid benzene ring exhibit relatively weak interaction with leather collagen. As a result, the tanning performance of TA-AZ and OST-AZ is worse than that of OSL-AZ. The biodegradability of OSL-AZ tanned leather and wastewater is obviously better than that of traditional Cr tanned leather and wastewater. Therefore, OSL-AZ tanning technology is a practical and environmentally friendly leather manufacturing technology.

2024 Vol.34(4): 19–27    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 3291 KB ] ( )

Carbon quantum dots (CQDs), as a novel kind of zero-dimensional carbon-based nanomaterials, has excellent photoluminescence performance, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and is easy to be modified. In recent years, research on the preparation of CQDs using natural biomass raw materials as synthetic precursors had received widespread attention. This article used delimed cattlehide waste dandruff as raw material and achieved its functional modification by adding citric acid, sodium alginate, and itaconic acid, respectively. Four types of dandruff-based CQDs were synthesized using the one-pot hydrothermal method, and the application of these CQDs as masking agents in the tanning process was preliminarily explored. Results indicated that the synthesized CQDs could emit blue fluorescence under 365 nm ultraviolet light irradiation and displayed a spherical morphology and good dispersion and stability. They also exhibited good masking effect in chromium-free metal tanning systems.

2024 Vol.34(4): 28–35    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1789 KB ] ( )

A series of lignin-modified castor oil-based waterborne polyurethanes were synthesized using tetrahydrofuran, isophorone diisocyanate, and castor oil as the primary raw materials. Lignin was employed as a modifying agent through hydrothermal treatment of lignocellulose, and 2,2-dihydroxymethylpropionic acid was utilized as a hydrophilic chain extender. The pre-polymerization method was adopted for the preparation of these lignin-modified castor oil-based waterborne polyurethanes (LCWPU). The structural characteristics, thermal properties, crystallization, hydrophobicity, and glossiness of the LCWPU films were investigated. The effects of lignin content and the molar ratio of nNCO/nOH on the thermal stability, mechanical properties and water resistance of LCWPU films were investigated. The results indicate that the LCWPU films had an amorphous structure. With the increase of lignin content and nNCO/nOH molar ratio, the water absorption of the LCWPU films decreased and the tensile strength increased significantly. Notably, when the lignin content was 3% and the nNCO/nOH molar ratio was 4.5, the LCWPU film demonstrated the highest water resistance and tensile strength, with a contact angle of 95.7°, a water absorption of 14.3%, a tensile strength of 62.9 MPa, and an elongation at break of 297.5%. The designed LCWPU has good application prospects in the fields such as leather finishing agents and matte wood paints.

2024 Vol.34(4): 36–44    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1894 KB ] ( )

The resource utilization of leather shavings has always been the core issue of leather industry. The production, transportation and disposal processes of leather shavings need to be carried out in accordance with regulations. However, the lack of a software system of the whole-process management platform for leather shavings makes it difficult to manage and supervise the standardized disposal of leather shavings. Herein, a software system of the whole-process management platform with 5 functional modules (i.e. user management, information reporting, information query, warning of the production, and the management of transportation) was designed and developed in this paper. Moreover, to verify the utility of this software, the actual production situation of an actual enterprise was imported in this whole-process management platform, resulting in a nice feedback. A series of suggestions were also presented in this paper.

2024 Vol.34(4): 45–52    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2070 KB ] ( )

Tanning is the key process to turn rawhide into leather. At present, chrome tanning agent still occupies 90% of the tanning agent market because of its excellent properties. However, Cr3+ can be converted to carcinogenic Cr6+, as well as the potential risk of chrome-tanning wastewater to the ecosystem also cannot be ignored. Therefore, chrome-free tanning agents become a hot topic. Among them, biomass materials have attracted much attention because of their wide source, excellent renewability and biodegradability. In this paper, the biomass materials such as polysaccharides and proteins were introduced, as well as the research progress for the modification of the biomass materials, and their application in leather manufacturing process were summarized. Meantime, the development prospect and application of biomass-based tanning agents were prospected.

2024 Vol.34(4): 53–57    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1308 KB ] ( )

As the active component of cationic fatliquors, oleic acid imidazoline was synthesized by using oleic acid and hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, and then was mixed with neutral oil to prepare the emulsion cationic fatliquors (GC) by phase transformation method. The characteristics of oleic acid imidazoline and GC were analyzed and compared with that of commercial cationic fatliquor FC. Results showed that GC had good emulsifying stability, and the average particle size of GC was 2.21 μm, which was smaller than that of FC (3.21 μm). GC and FC were applied to cowhide for a fatliquoring performance comparison, and the results revealed that GC had better oil-moistening, hand durability, light resistance and physical and mechanical properties than FC. Therefore, GC is a good cationic fatliqour.

2024 Vol.34(4): 58–65    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2751 KB ] ( )

High shrinkage polyester (HSPET)/polyamide 6 (PA6) hollow pie-segmented spunbonded needle-punching microfiber leather base cloth (hereinafter referred to as HSPET/PA6 needle-punching leather base cloth) was prepared by using HSPET/PA6 spunbonded filament needle-punching nonwovens as the base cloth, and water-impregnated polyurethane (WPU) was included. The effects of the pre-fiber-splitting and post-fiber-splitting processes, as well as the immersion of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and WPU on the properties of HSPET/PA6 needle- punching leather base cloth were comparatively analyzed. The results showed that, under the same PVA and WPU leaching content, the mechanical properties of the pre-fiber-opening method were better than those of the post-fiber-opening method, but the softness and air permeability and moisture permeability were poorer compared with those of the post-fiber-opening method; the mechanical properties of the HSPET/PA6 needle-punching leather base cloth prepared under the two processes were improved and then decreased with the increase of the PVA leaching content, and were gradually increased with the increase of the WPU content; the softness and air permeability and moisture permeability were improved with the increase of PVA leaching content.

2024 Vol.34(4): 66–72    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1849 KB ] ( )

In recent years, the application of petroleum-based synthetic fiber materials has not only promoted the prosperity and development of the fashion industry, but also brought tremendous impact and damage to the earth's environment. From the perspective of environmentally friendly apparel materials, the adhesive properties of glucomannan in the vegan plant konjac were utilized to carry out the production and application of apparel materials in an attempt to apply the biodegradable plant-based environmentally friendly composite materials to apparel design. The experiment results proved that the konjac plant-based composite materials had good corrosion resistance, water resistance and strength. Meanwhile, the materials possessed a unique texture, good coloring performance and good plasticity, which is in line with the basic requirements of fashionable apparel design, and had the potential to become an ideal sustainable apparel materials.

2024 Vol.34(4): 73–80    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1995 KB ] ( )

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of different types of protective boots on the plantar pressure distribution of young males, and to provide theoretical guidance for the optimal design of protective footwear. Twelve young males who participated in regular physical training were instructed to wear four different types of protective boots and perform normal walking, goose-stepping, and running exercises. An insole-type plantar pressure measurement system was used to collect plantar pressure data, and several parameters, such as peak pressure, pressure-time integral, and contact area, were analyzed. The results indicated that, compared with the other three types of protective boots, F1 protective boots had higher peak pressure and pressure-time integral values in the forefoot and heel regions, which might increase the likelihood of foot fatigue and pain; F4 protective boots had an integrated arch-supporting insole, which effectively redistributed plantar pressure and reduced pressure in the forefoot and heel regions, thus lowering the risk of overuse injuries to the foot; F2 and F3 protective boots both used EVA foam as the midsole material, which offered better cushioning and rebound properties, leading to lower peak pressure and pressure-time integral values in various plantar regions. This study suggested that the application of arch-supporting insoles and lower-hardness midsole materials might be a feasible strategy to alleviate impact injuries to the foot.

2024 Vol.34(4): 81–87    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2822 KB ] ( )

Portrait stone is an important expression of ancient painting art and one of the origins of stone sculpture art in China. Through combing and analyzing the patterns of Han Dynasty pictorial stones, this work explored the cultural meanings of these patterns and analyzed their visual language. The preferences of different age groups for men's boots were investigated, and the basic design styles were determined by counting and analyzing the obtained data. The basic elements of the representative pictorial stone patterns of Han Dynasty were extracted, and a variety of innovative patterns were derived and applied to men’s boots by applying simplification, generalization, refinement and other design means. On the one hand, this research increases the diversity of shoes and boots and enriches the design system of men's shoes; on the other hand, it also provides a new direction for the innovation and application of traditional Chinese patterns in modern shoes and boots design.

2024 Vol.34(4): 88–93    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1518 KB ] ( )

From the three aspects of anti-puncture, anti-smash and support stability, the application development of supporting protective materials for combat boots in the past dynasties was systematically reviewed, and the application of corresponding materials for active combat boots of the US army was introduced. By comparing the performance of different materials and the application of materials at home and abroad, based on the design concept of our army, it is proposed that non-metallic protective materials, especially high-performance fiber materials, will be the application trend, and it is pointed out that innovative ideas of foreign armies should be used for reference and to strengthen the properties of the material itself.

2024 Vol.34(4): 94–100    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1193 KB ] ( )

This paper makes an in-depth study of the existing design and development mode of footwear products at home and abroad, and summarizes the current design and development types of footwear products. Special attention is paid to the operation characteristics of each mode, and through the analysis and comparison of elements, the characteristics of each mode are sorted out and summarized. In addition, the development trend of the design and development mode of footwear products is analyzed and predicted, in order to provide useful reference for professionals engaged in the field of footwear product design and development.

2024 Vol.34(4): 101–105    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 1333 KB ] ( )

Previous studies on shoe fit mainly focused on the compatibility between the shoe's last size and the wearer's foot size. Restricted by individual foot size change, footwear habit and design factor, it is difficult to achieve highly matching foot-type footwear products. Studies have confirmed that ill-fitting footwear was the main cause of foot pressure and skin friction and could also cause the change in walking posture. To further explore the influence of ill-fitting footwear on human gait and establish the relationship between shoe fit and plantar pressure distribution, a questionnaire survey was conducted, in which 9 subjects were asked about their subjective feelings of shoe fit. X-ray machines were further adopted to confirm the matching status of the subjects' feet and shoes, and Footscan plantar pressure plate was used to collect the peak value of plantar pressure and the trajectory of plantar pressure center of the subjects under the three conditions of shoes being too small, too large and moderate. Results showed that, when the shoe size changed, the peak value of plantar pressure and the locus of plantar pressure center changed. Compared with the shoes-fitting condition, the peak value of plantar pressure in the toe, the first metatarsophalangeal joint, the fifth metatarsophalangeal joint, the arch and the heel of the foot were significantly different (p<0.05) under the conditions of shoes being too small and too large. Shoe size changes significantly affect the distribution of plantar pressure.

2024 Vol.34(4): 106–113    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2550 KB ] ( )

The Ujimqin Mongolian smoked leather robe is a traditional Mongolian leather robe made of sheep skin, which has typical characteristics of nomadic clothing and demonstrates the creative wisdom of the Ujimqin Mongolian people in dialectically unifying objects (clothing) with spirit.Taking the Ujimqin Mongolian fumigated leather robe as the research object, first-hand information was obtained through field investigations to analyze its production process, decorative characteristics, and functional characteristics. Then, the production form that highlights "practicality" with "complexity", the aesthetic contrast of "simplicity" with "magnificence", and the "conflicting" creative wisdom between functional value and modern life were interpreted.

2024 Vol.34(4): 114–120    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2235 KB ] ( )

The recycling of leather scraps is one of the important ways to promote the green and sustainable development of leather industry. In this study, three principles in sustainable design of leather scraps were proposed: "realizability principle", "innovation principle" and "continuity principle", which were verified by practice and gave new product value to waste leather in the form of artistic works. With the recycling and reuse of leather scraps as the starting point, in view of the design limitations of the scraps, "Panh" adopts the fabric stitching method to coordinate and innovate the finished leather scraps and the "intangible heritage" Shu embroidery technology, exploring the possibility of applying the finished leather scraps to the field of installation art, providing a new idea for the sustainable development of the leather industry.

2024 Vol.34(4): 121–128    [Abstract] ( )    [PDF 2099 KB ] ( )

In order to excavate the application and innovation of Jinxiu Yao costume patterns in women's bag design, to achieve the exchange and integration of national culture and cultural and creative products, combined with the shape of the grammar of the Jinxiu Yao costume patterns for in-depth discussion. Firstly, through fieldwork and selecting representative Jinxiu Yao dress patterns, categorising them according to their artistic characteristics and extracting the modelling elements from them, a material library of initial patterns was constructed. Secondly, by applying the rules of shape grammar derivation, the initial pattern is evolved and transformed to generate a new pattern, which is then applied to women's bags following modern design methods. Finally, the design solutions were evaluated by the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method, and the optimal design was selected. This work verified the feasibility of Jinxiu Yao costume patterns in the design of ethnic cultural and creative women's bags through shape grammar, meanwhile, it also provided a more objective design method for ethnic style cultural and creative product design, which is meaningful for the inheritance and innovation of Jinxiu Yao traditional culture.